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T.M.Lewin | Know Your Size - Suits


T.M.Lewin | Know Your Size - Suits

A video guide on measuring suit size.

You can view our full collection here:

T.M.Lewin | Know Your Size - Shirts

A video guide on measuring for a shirt.

You can view our full collection here:

Correct Sleeve Length For Dress Shirts, Jackets & Suits + 8 Mistakes To Avoid

See our full-fledged guide here:

Get the tie I'm wearing in the vid:

00:00 Introduction

Shirt cuff should fall to the base of the thumb, but that requires many considerations to get it right. Basically every feature of a dress shirt – the cut, the armhole size, the cuff button placement, the width of the cuff – will affect the length of the shirt sleeve.

00:32 Sleeve Length for French Cuff Shirts
It should always end at the root of your thumb. Opt for a shirt armhole that is big enough to make you comfortable but small enough to keep the shirt cuff at the right length.

Considerations to make regarding French Cuff or Double Cuff Shirts

01:04 French Cuff Shirts Should Have a Horseshoe Shape Cuff
01:27 The French Cuff Buttonhole Should Be Positioned Closely to the Edge of the Cuff
02:49 Shirt Cuff Must Not Be Too Wide Otherwise It Slides Down
04:34 French Cuffs Should Not Be too Narrow Otherwise it Throws Off the Proportions

Now that you know how long a shirt should be, the question is, how much shirt cuff should you show?

If you go through history, and if you consult different people, you realize different lengths are considered proper by different people.

For example, Allan Flusser suggests you show a half an inch of cuff, shirt cuff that is, underneath your jacket sleeve. On the other hand, Bernhard Roetzel, famous author of the book The Gentleman suggests just one cm which is about 2/5 of an inch. To learn more about him, check out our video interview here.

If you go back to the 50's, you find guys that suggest just a quarter inch or about 0.6 cm or alternatively, 2 cm which is 4/5 if an inch or almost an entire inch.

We, at Gentleman's Gazette, believe that it's a matter of taste and personally, I prefer anything in around half an inch, maybe a little bit more. What's more important than an exact measurement is proportion. Ideally, you want the amount of shirt cuff you show here to correspond to the amount of shirt you show on the back of your neck. So if you have half an inch on the back of your neck, you should show about half an inch on your shirt cuff. It's much easier to adjust the sleeve length of the jacket or a shirt, rather than adjusting it on the neck.

If you decide you don't want to show any shirt cuff at all, make sure that the sleeve length is not too long but rather proper and ends right past the little crease in your hand or the root of your thumb.

The other problem a lot of men face is having a large shirt cuff fit into a tapered jacket sleeve. That leaves you with a cuff bunching up and it simply looks terrible. if you have a barrel cuff with buttons on your shirt, you definitely want a more tapered jacket sleeve otherwise, it looks disproportionate.

Traditionally, button cuffs were a bit more casual so with the more formal double-breasted suit, you would always wear French cuffs or double cuffs with cuff links.

Today, you can basically wear anything you want but if you want to adhere to the classic dress code you should always go with barrel cuffs for more casual ensembles and French cuffs for more formal outfits.

In my opinion, Prince Charles does a very good job in balancing his shirt cuffs, his sleeves, and his neck. Next time you see a picture of him or see him on TV, pay attention to that.
#sleevelength #propersleevelength #notsponsored
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How A Suit Should Fit - Men's Suits Fit Guide - Gentleman's Gazette

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00:00 Introduction

You could hear it all over the place, fit matters the most, and while I wholeheartedly agree, the problem is, it’s rarely outlined what that thoroughly means.

00: 56 Why Should You Care About Fit?

First of all, a well-fitting suit is almost as comfortable as wearing a sweater and sweatpants. Second of all, it makes you really stand out from the crowd and people will look at you and think you're really dapper but they can't pinpoint that it's a fit of your suit.

01:13 Why Does A Properly Fitting Suit Make You Look Better?

The answer is actually quite simple; a suit hides everything that's asymmetrical about your body and hides all the flaws, at the same time highlighting features such as your shoulders and your chest, giving you a natural v-shape that's very flattering and attractive.

02:08 What is a suit?

02: 49 Collar
It should fit snugly against your neck without being overly tight and it should never stand away or gap. If you have a round shoulder the way I do, chances that your jackets gap more easily are much higher than if you have a straight posture. Because of that, you always have to go to the alterations tailor or talk to your made to measure provider or tailor and make sure you get a proper fit. The problem is when you stand, most jackets look good, the issue starts when you start moving when you lift your arms and you still want that jacket collar to sit tight against your shirt collar.

03:49 Shoulder
Ideally, you want the shoulder seam on top to be just slightly extended from the bone on your shoulder. Unlike a dress shirt which ends exactly at the bone, you want it to be slightly hanging over to give you a broader look and enable a range of movement because when you have multiple layers of fabric, the outer layer always has to be a little longer to be comfortable, you want the top part at your shoulder to be smooth and not puddling.

04:56 Armholes
Most armholes in suits are too big because suits are industrially made and they want to have one size that fits it all, the problem is if you have huge armholes, it may seem like it's more comfortable but it actually isn't because as soon as you move, your entire jacket moves with you and constricts you. On the other hand, if you have a tight armhole that ends just below your armpit, you can easily move and comfortably.

05:50 Chest
When it comes to a good fit of the chest it's always easy to see because some chests are fuller and they have more fabric that drapes well and for that, it's called Drape.

07:23 Vents
Today, most jackets have side vents, they are the most flattering. Ideally, you want high long vents that end exactly where your jacket pocket ends. The last hundred years, center vents have been in and out of fashion but originally, they were meant for horseback riding so unless you wear a jacket on the back of a horse, skip it.

08:13 Length
It's very important to get it right in the first place because even though you can physically change the length of the jacket, it will always look off if you do so. The proportions will simply not work and the location of your pockets will seem off as well as the buttoning point and therefore if you encounter something that is too short or too long simply leave it behind.

10:24 Sleeves
A sleeve should always hang very nicely without any wrinkles. If you see all the wrinkles chances are the sleeve pitch is wrong which means the way and the angle the sleeve was set in, that can be fixed by a tailor but they have to be quite skilled.
#howasuitshouldfit #suitsformen #notsponsored
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How to Tailor Your Suits || TAILORED vs UNTAILORED

How to Tailor Your Suits || TAILORED vs UNTAILORED

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The 7 Things Every Guy Should Know About Suits

Knowing just a few things about suits will set you apart in a sea of ill-fitting, ugly, outdated suits! These 7 tips take the confusion out of dressing for formal occasions with easy advice that every guy should know. What is a suit? How should it fit? How many buttons? What about tailoring? Give us 2.5 minutes and we'll get you up to speed. Then if you need to get that great suit we've got you covered at

Buy Tuxedo - T.M.Lewin | Know Your Size - Suits

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A tuxedo is definitely an investment but it's worth it.

3 Types of Suits: Off the Rack vs. Made to Measure vs. Bespoke

When you need a new suit, you have lots of different options these days. There are more brands to choose from than ever before. This is great, but it can be a little overwhelming.

I want to help you choose the best option for your needs and budget. For the typical gentleman, here’s what I would suggest:

First, try to find something that fits well off the rack. Assume it will need a little tailoring, as this is totally normal with suits. Set aside $50-100 for basic alterations, such as getting the pants hemmed, sleeves shortened and jacket taken in.

If you can’t find anything that fits well enough off the rack, consider going custom. For most guys, this means made-to-measure. If money isn’t an issue - and/or you’re willing and able to invest in a great suit that you’ll wear for years - bespoke is definitely the way to go.

Prioritize companies that have showrooms (or fit shops) near you. It’s much better to go get your measurements taken, in person and by a professional, than to submit your own measurements.

If you can’t find a local option, it’s time to go the online MTM route. Of all the companies I’ve tried out, my experience has been with Oliver Wicks and Black Lapel.

If I had to pick, I’d choose Oliver Wicks. But please understand that I’ve had a lot of time to dial in my measurements with them. Black Lapel did a great job on the first (and only) suit they made for me.

#suits #bespoke #customsuit

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How to Choose the Correct Hanger Size for Your Suits

The Hanger Project's collection of Luxury Hangers is the most comprehensive, cohesive collection of wooden hangers available in the world. Our suit hangers are offered in 4 sizes listed below:

15.5 in. small hanger = less than a size US 40
17 in. medium hanger = between sizes US 40 and 44
18.5 in. large hanger = between sizes US 44 and 48
20 in. extra-large hanger = over size US 49

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Luxury Suit Hangers

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Our Luxury Suit Hanger, available in four sizes, features an unprecedented 2.5-inch shoulder flare that provides up to five-times more support than ordinary hangers. All of our trouser bars are flocked, which is a special velvet-like coating that gently grips trousers without applying any pressure. Your trousers will neither crease or slide off while hanging.

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BLUE vs GRAY Suits | Which Suit Is Better? Charcoal vs Black vs Navy vs Blue

- Click here to read the article: Blue vs. Gray vs. Black suits.

The age-old question, Gentlemen. Which suit color is the best? Well, it depends on a lot of factors, most notably versatility. Some colors are too formal, others too casual. Which suit color would you wear the most often? Which could you dress up or down the most easily? In today's video, Antonio's going to answer all those questions, along with several others, to help YOU determine which suit color is your best choice.

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Made to Measure Men Suits - FULL BODY measurements (

In De la Vega Tailors all our clothes are custom made to our customers' body measurements.

In this video we show the easy steps required to take your full body measurements.

After you take your measurements, go to choose your favourite tailor made suit, shirt, overcoat, tuxedo or other garment style, and fill your measurements form. You are now ready to order your custom made garment.


En De la Vega Tailors todas nuestras prendas están hechas a partir de las medidas únicas de cada cliente.

En este video puede ver los sencillos pasos necesarios para tomar sus medidas.

Tras tomar sus medidas, entre en para elegir su estilo favorito de traje, chaqueta, camisa, abrigo u otra prenda a medida, y rellene el formulario de medidas. Ya está listo para realizar su pedido a medida.

Italian Wool Fabric. Vitale Barberis Canonico suits. Is Your Suit Capable of That?

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A Suit is such a personal item.
You have to make it yours.
You have to make how you want it!
In this video, we are going over the newest addition to our collection which is a charcoal grey suit from Vitale Barberis Canonico, Italian mill founded in 1663.
All of our suits are going to be made from VBC fabrics.
Some of them are going to be Single Breasted, like this one, some of them could be double breasted, but all of them are going to be the highest quality and finish.
If you are interested in participation in our pre-order phase where they will be 50% cheaper than normal price, please let me know in the comments below.
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2:23 - Dark Grey Suit made of 100% Wool VBC
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5:09 - There are two things that are important in a suit
5:34 - Working cuffs
6:00 - how to fold a pocket square for that suit?
6:35 - Contact me if you would like to get 50% discount on that suit!


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How A Suit Should Fit II - Secrets About Suits Nobody Talks About

Check out the Complete Guide with twice as much information o how suits should fit no matter if you are going for a slim fit or regular fit here

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Sleeve length guide:
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#howasuitshouldfit #notsponsored #suitsformen

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While most people look at the front, a back can really tell you if a jacket fits perfectly or not. First, the top of your back right underneath the collar; you shouldn't have any lines that are horizontal or vertical. Same thing all the way down. The only area where you can have a few wrinkles is around your armpit underneath the shoulders simply because you need that for the range movement, otherwise, if you see a suit from the back and it's very clean and hangs very neat and the vents don't gap, I can bet with you that the rest of the suit will fit well because something like that will never fit like that off the rack. You'll always have to have either some alterations or it's a made to measure or bespoke garment.

We move to the front of the jacket. You ideally want to see an hourglass shape or a v-shape on top and then a skirt that drapes slightly out in the bottom, it's very flattering. In the US, there used to be a sack suit style but that's not really flattering because it makes you actually look like a potato sack. If you see X wrinkles, that means your jacket is too tight especially around the buttoning point. If you see vertical wrinkles in the front on your chest, that means it's too big.

One thing that's often never talked about is balance and by that, I mean the length and the proportions of the front and the back when looked at from the side. As I mentioned before, most of the time, the back is shorter in the front and getting it completely level is very hard to achieve and usually only something you find with bespoke tailors.

One thing that has a huge impact on the way your jacket looks are the front quarters and how they're cut. Traditionally, the quarters a much more closed which in my opinion provides an old man look versus if you have more open rounded quarters that are cut up slightly, It provides a certain dynamic. Now, if you open your quarters too much, you may actually end up seeing the tip of your tie or maybe even your dress shirt from underneath the buttoning point which is a bad look. So you always have to coordinate the quarters with the rise of your pants. If you have more open quarters, you want higher rise pants. If you have a lower and more closed quarters, it doesn't matter which brings us to the next point.

which is the buttoning point. If your tie pokes out from underneath the buttoning point, the fit is off. In most cases, the buttoning point should be around your natural waist which is usually the belly button were slightly above the buttoning point can have a huge impact in how you're perceived visually. Let's say you're a shorter guy, you can slightly elevate that buttoning point because it will give you the appearance of having slightly longer legs. The same is true for my body type; I have a long torso and relatively short legs, so I bring up the buttoning point ever so slightly, that way I look pretty proportional I get that one to one aspect ratio in my length and I'm just dapper and people would never assume that I have shorter legs than another man of my height.
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3 Different Types Of Suits | Off The Rack, Made To Measure, Bespoke

Explore the made to measure suits in the He Spoke Style Shop:

When it comes to men's suits, you have a few different options--off the rack, made to measure (or custom), and bespoke. In this video, I explain each different type of suit, go over the pros and cons, show you an example of an off the rack, made to measure, and bespoke suit from my own closet, and give you advice on what type of suit could be the best fit for you.

00:48 - Off The Rack explained
02:30 - Made To Measure explained
04:10 - Bespoke explained
06:11 - Off The Rack example
07:35 - Made To Measure example
08:33 - Bespoke example

Here are the suits I'm wearing:

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▪ QG Custom Suit →
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▪ Edward Sexton Suit →
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▪ Drake's Tie (old, similar) →
▪ Brooks Brothers Cuff Links →
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▪ 5 Ways To Wear A Grey Suit →

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#suits #bespoke #custom

Look FLAWLESS In Suits | The Ultimate Guide To Buying Your First Suit

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Sauna Suits 101: Everything You Need To Know

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All of these and much more answered in the full article:

Style Expert Reacts To CHEAP (But HIGHLY Rated!) Amazon Suits

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